Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Paris: Part Two (Turning 30)


So last we talked about Paris, I was about to turn 30. And I did!
I had two goals for turning 30 last year remember? Finish War and Peace, and buy all new underwear. Well, check and check! (Although War and Peace was the easy one.)
So already going into the day I could hold my head high as One Who Accomplishes Things.
After saying good morning to the Eiffel tower we went to check out the Motte Picquet open air market, and then Rue Montorgueil for a few little odd things.
We had a great little lunch outside at a cafe, on the corner of rue de something. (Although to save time, I will just say that we ate almost all of our meals this way. So when I allude to a meal just insert us at a little bistro table, on a cobblestone curb, under a canopy, in a chair like this, rubbing shoulders with our neighbor, both of us swathed in cigarette smoke.)
Lunch ended eventually (since they really do expect you to take your time eating in France, and won't bring your check unless you flag them down and ask for it.) with a great dumping of Spring rain.
So we hopped puddles to the nearest metro station, and I got over my thing about walking the streets of Paris, and thoroughly enjoyed the convenience of being shuttled underground to Montmartre.
Where we combed the streets and generally wasted time drinking coffee until Refuges de Fondues opened for dinner.
Now what do I say about dinner...
Think local legend hole in the wall type place, roughly the size of a bedroom -every inch signed in marker by people who have visited at some point.
It's all just two long lines of tables backed up against either wall, so the only way to get to the seats benched against the wall is to climb over the table. The waiter offers you his hand, but it is always the girls duty to step over to the other side...I think they think it's funnier this way. (And it is.)
Once you're there you get a choice of either cheese or meat fondue (we asked if we could get both, he said no.) They bring you a starter cocktail, and a plate full of tiny apps like pickles and fois gras tidbits, and then a baby bottle of either white or red wine. I heard somewhere that the story with the bottles is that they wanted to get around some wine glass tax they have in France and did so by serving their wine in baby bottles.
Well I highly recommend this mode of drinking. It makes you feel young and ridiculous all over. We bought one from them before heading back to the apartment that night, so that now I can enjoy my "bottle" of wine at home, and think about what fun turning 30 can be.

Ps- I'm not sure how many of these posts it will take to cover Paris, but I've got a lot of photos to go through, so hang in there. I'm enjoying savoring the trip.
Also, I updated pictures in the Paris: Part One post.

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